"Tech~Tips"

Giving your chain
the ultimate wax job.

If you have ever thought of using paraffin wax to lube your chain, you've probably heard many of the arguments, for and against, this type of lubricant.

"It doesn't attract dirt."

"It doesn't penetrate far enough into the chain."

"it's completely waterproof."

"It's too much trouble to put on."

etc.etc.
Well, I won't kid you. waxing your chain does take time. If you want to do it right and end up with a fully lubricated chain which will not attract dirt, not wash off, and last for as long as an oiled chain. Or longer than many spraylubes.


First, if you're chain is dirty, you will have to clean it in solvent one last time. This will prevent the clean wax from being unnecessarily contaminated. Here's what you'll need to give your chain the "ultimate wax job".


By now you are probably seeing that there is another reason that the magazines discourage using paraffin. The adds for those expensive spray lubes make them big $$$ ;-3) Now for the down-side. it does take a little effort on your part to get it right. That's what I'm going to teach you.

Take your cleaned chain, or new chain (a new chain doesn't need to be cleaned in solvent), and submerge it in a tub (or sinkfull) of water. Don't worry, it wont rust. It won't be wet long enough. Make sure you get water in between all the link plates, that's what's going to clean your chain.

Remove the chain from the water and place it on the cooled wax that you previously melted in the skillet. It doesn't have to be totally hard, but it helps to have a solid surface. Turn the skillet up to 250º. That's hot enough but still safe. Wax doesn't start to burn until it gets to about 375º. So there is a safety margin. Cover the skillet.

In a little while you will hear a bubbling noise. that is not the wax, but the water trapped between the links of your chain boiling. As it boils out, it carries with it all the embedded dirt, grime, old lube and worn particles of metal. Your chain hasn't been this clean since you bought it! When the bubbling stops, let the chain sit in the hot wax for about 10 minutes. this will let the new wax soak into the chain, lubricating it completely.

Remove the chain using a hook made from an old spoke or a wire coat hanger. Carefull, it's hot! Hang it up until it's cool enough to handle without burning yourself, but still soft. When it's ready, put it back on your bike and immediately go for a ride. Ride for a few miles, if possible. This will prevent much of the skipping usually associated with a newly waxed chain by letting it "settle in" while it's soft and mallable. You can also accomplish this by pulling the bottom of the rear derailleur cage back so the chain is kept taut while backpedaling the crank fast by hand for a while.

From now on, you won't ever have to clean your chain again. A good wax job will last about 500 miles, about as long as a good oiling, without the dirt!. When your chain sounds dry or makes a squeak, usually in one link, simply dunk it in water again, and rewax it as before. Using paraffin, a chain will last as long as normally, about 3000-5000 miles. It will last through about an hour of rainy riding without washing off. Try that with a spray lube!


Another good idea!

Garth Wilson tells me that he adds powdered graphite, which he buys at the hardware store, to his paraffin. Which gives it a double-dose of lubrication!

Thanks, Garth, for the tip!

WOW! this is great! Teach me more! -->

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