The Edinburgh of the South! And with so many place and street
names obtained from Edinburgh, Scotland is it any wonder? Dunedin City
is built on seven hills, rather like Rome, and when the forefathers designed the city streets,
little did they know how hilly Dunedin was. For example Princes Street ran through Bell Hill. If the area had not have been
excavated, the street would be too steep even for modern day cars.
When the designers mapped out the city, they
designed it for horse, and pedestrian traffic, the motor age had not arrived.
It was the gold from Central
Otago and Queenstown
districts that brought the major wealth to the city.
Nowadays Dunedin is the fourth largest city in New Zealand, and is situated about eighty miles south of 45th
Parallel, an invisible mark exactly half way between the Equator and the South
Pole. It is at the head of Otago Harbour once a busy port, but now playing second fiddle to
Port Chalmers some twelve kilometres north east. Many industries have come and
gone, some of the head offices of major New Zealand companies have headed north, to better markets. Dunedin will always be regarded as a university town, with
the institution the biggest employer.
In the vicinity of Dunedin is the Otago Peninsula, a wildlife playground, with rare and interesting
species of animal and bird life. Otago Harbour is part of a chain of tidal bays and inlets within
the greater Dunedin area. Other areas are Blueskin Bay,
to the north, Purakaunui Inlet, Otago Harbour, Papanui and Hoopers Inlet on the peninsula. These
contain numerous shellfish and molluscs, and the birds trying to get them for
their supper.
Life in Dunedin can be interesting, with so much nature close at
hand. Imagine sitting at one of the numerous beaches, sniffing in the salt-sea
air, or watching the seals and penguins. Imagine living on one of the many
hills, getting a great view of parts of the city from your lounge or living
room? Imagine opening the front door, and in comes the smell of wet vegetation
on a rainy day?
Otago Peninsula
A secluded beach on the ocean coast side of Otago Peninsula, this beach is accessible by foot down a track, then
onto one of the many sand dunes. But beware, it only takes five minutes to
clamber down onto the beach below, but the steepish dune makes for a half hour
trek back to the car park at the top. Some people have even managed to bring
sleds and skis for an adrenalin rushing trip to the bottom. But try to carry
that vehicle back up for another run?
Like so many ocean beaches on the peninsula,
Sand fly bay is home to the very rare Yellow Eyed penguin, as well as the odd
fur seal. I have my own theory on why Sand fly Bay got its name. There are no
sand flies in the area, (a good thing for those who don’t like being
eaten alive by the blood sucking insect) but the sand itself just flies in the
wind.
Otago Peninsula
Named for Portobello on the Firth of Forth
near Edinburgh, the two roads to Portobello afford pleasant views,
and sceneries. The harbourside road goes past suburban areas giving an
insight to those people living beside the peaceful harbour, only to be
interrupted by the traffic, shags and seagulls, or the odd ship making its way
to the Upper Harbour, while the Highcliff road gives sweeping panoramic views of Otago Harbour and the seaward side of the peninsula.
At the end of the subsidiary peninsula of Portobello Peninsula, there is the Marine Aquarium, and is accessed by an unsealed road
beside the general store at Portobello. This aquatic base uses reticulated sea
water in its tanks, and is part of the University of Otago.
Portobello could also be used as a base for
getting to the wild life areas of the peninsula, as it is centrally located,
with a number of accommodations available.
I personally regard the Peninsula as a wildlife playground to Dunedin City
Otago peninsula
This place is on the ocean coast of Otago Peninsula, and is a good beach to stroll. This nice beach
is easily accessible via Portobello. Turn right at the garage, and arrive
at Hoopers Inlet. Then turn left, driving along the water's edge.
While cruising along the dusty road, it is a good idea for the passengers to
look over the inlet, to the bird life, as they try to catch molluscs or just
wade for the sake of it. Continue along the road until the end, where there is
a shaded car park, (careful to lock up the car, and stow away valuables (your
camera, you can take with you)) then a short walk to the beach, which is not suitable
for swimming. At low tide there is an access along the beach to a small
cave, although it is very hard to see, unless one knows what he/she is looking
for. Allans Beach is most probably the most accessible ocean beach on the
peninsula, and like so many others, the beach is home to some fur seals, and
yellow eyed penguins.
I have been there quite a few times, and
just felt at one with nature, with the odd seal lazing on the sands.
Otago Peninsula
The main attraction at Otakou is the Maori reserve,
and marae, but historically it was Otakou which gave birth to the name
"Otago" as the early settlers had difficulty pronouncing the Maori
name. I drive past there each time while on my way to Pilots Beach,
and enjoy seeing those cribs, holiday homes and Maori homes. But in reality the way to pronounce Otakou is
almost exactly the same as Otago, except the harder ‘K’, as
compared to the soft ‘G’.
Otago is pronounced “oh Tah goh,
Otakou is pronounced “oh tah k oh”
Otago Peninsula
A very pleasant destination for a
day’s outing; Pilot’s Beach is really only a picnic spot, just
before Taiaroa Head. Tourists making their way to the Albatross colony
come to check out the small beach to find fur seals at rest or play. The
occasional Royal Albatross, which has colonized at the nearby Taiaroa Head, has
been spotted from this beach.
Otago Harbour
The deep water port for Dunedin, Port Chalmers is situated in a sheltered bay.
Motorists and cruise ship passengers spend some time on Flagstaff Hill,
overlooking the port as they watch the shipping. Historically Port Chalmers was
a pioneering place, with early settlers stepping off the boats here, rather
than Dunedin.
As it is a deep water port, importing and
exporting produce, Port Chalmers have had a number of New Zealand firsts, the first being the suburb to which the
first railway of the standard gauge ran. One of the original Fairlie
locomotives "Josephine" is on display at the Dunedin Early Settlers Museum.
Port Chalmers has had a couple of maritime
firsts as well, the first being the first shipment of frozen meat leaving on
the sailing ship Dunedin. And in 1972 was the first port to incorporate the
increasing container trade.
Nowadays plenty of container ships call in,
as does some cruise ships in season.
Port Chalmers has a character of its own
with a number of cottages and villas set on the hillsides of the peninsula. It
is surrounded by creeper vines, right to the waters edge in some places, except
for the small road surrounding the township.
2 kilometres from Port Chalmers
A fishing village two kilometres down the
harbour from Port chalmers, and incorporated in the Port Chalmers township. Most of the cottages and villas on the hillside
behind the bay give Careys Bay a character of its own. There were a couple of boat
builders in the harbourside village.
End of Otago Harbour
Scene of mass murder by David Gray, and site of Aluminium
smelter. (Now cancelled).
Aramoana is a popular seaside resort with
excellent beach, and sea fishing. It is located on the western shores of Otago Harbour, accessible by road from Port Chalmers. Near here is
a natural sand spit, which gives shelter to many molluscs and bird life. A nice
walk along this spit, one comes to a couple of old houses, and a small pier.
Dunedin City
Situated on a high coastal point overlooking
St. Clair beach, sits ruins of a building which was home to Edward Bowes
Cargill. Cargills Castle had become one of the important structures in Dunedin associated with the Cargill family. Now in ruins,
this building can be easily seen if one travels towards the St. Clair Golf
Course situated near Corstorphine. Head along the side of the golf course, (Isadore Road) until the end where there is a new subdivision.
Macrocarpas which have previously blocked the view have recently been cleared away
making the site a spectacle. A trust has been formed with the view of restoring
the castle to its original splendour.
Prominent hill overlooking Dunedin
The physical feature of Mount Cargill is that it is a prominent landmark of Dunedin. An access road is via Pine Hill, and once at
the car park, one can walk the last kilometre or two via the A H Reed memorial
track to the summit to a vista which is nothing short of spectacular. And the
aroma of the atmosphere of 2000 feet above sea level! From there one can
see for miles, from the coastline of Waikouaiti. To the Nuggets area, past the
mouths of the Clutha river, and the Rock and Pillar Range
in the rear of Middlemarch. I have been up the mountain side myself, when
I was a CB radio operator, and got many contacts from further afield. Beware in
the winter of ice falling off the television mast.
Dunedin city
A popular surfing beach and esplanade of Dunedin city. There is a motel right on the
waterfront, which gives uninterrupted views of the surfers as they skim the
waves, for their thrills, spills and wipeouts!
Dunedin City
A beach and domain area of
Dunedin city.
The combined St. Kilda and St Clair beaches covers over five kilometres and is
a popular strolling beach, with citizens exercising their dogs. But the St.
Clair esplanade is a complete dog free area except where marked, so take care!
Beyond the houses which dorns the St, Clair area, there are numerous sports
fields, stadiums etc. At John Wilson Drive, there are tea rooms with takeaways, and a live
steam railway operating on some Sundays, taking passengers from St. Kilda to Moana Rua Road and return.
Driving along John Wilson Drive, one eventually arrives at Lawyer’s Head,
where one can get great views of from Tomahawk Beach
and its town of Ocean Grove, to Taieri Mouth in the south. Between this
drive and Tomahawk, there are further sports fields, a golf course, and a
camping ground. On Sundays, at Tahuna Park,
an A & P showground, there is the car boot sale, where people sell unwanted
goods. This is a great way to get cheap articles! Hey sellers, want to put your
goods up for sale, and make a reasonable profit? Only five dollars will get you
a space in the car boot sale.