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We hopped another overnight train from Agra to Amritsar, which is on the India/Pakistan border in the Punjab region. Most Punjabis belong to the Sikh religion, and they are the people who wear the turbans and silver bangels and carry the big knives.


Nescafe - it's actually a cafe!! Wow, what a concept!



This is the Golden Temple, the most important temple in the Sikh religion. The Sikh people believe in equality among all everyone - the first guru was a believer in this long before equality was fashionable (16th century). Members of all castes could bathe together in the holy waters. The Sikhs are very welcoming, so everyone, no matter what religion or nationality, is welcome in this temple. Before entering, you check your shoes, cover your head, and wash your feet.



Christi's little sisters.
(Getting photos with foreigners seems to be a favorite past time in India.)




Sri Guru Tauru Singh, in his quest for enlightenment: "Don't they have pork here?"



Hippie Girl eats organic vegan gruel on the floor with the masses....
Actually, this massive dining hall serves dal (curried lentil stew), rice, chipattis, and water to about 40,000 people a day for free. All are welcome, donations are appreciated.




Massive dish-washing undertaking.



Look at that pile of plates!



Video: Eating in the dining hall.



The temple sits in the middle of a holy lake where people bathe for purity. This walkway, filled with a line of pilgrims, is the only way in to the temple.



Video: The Golden Temple.



These Sikh fish are looking for their portion of dal and rice... They live in the holy water surrounding the Golden Temple.



The Golden Temple at night.



Another angle.



We also checked out two Hindu temples while in Amritsar. This one was like a holy House of Horrors! You follow a narrow path up and down stairs, around windy corners, and through tunnels! At points, you even have to crawl. One tunnel was filled with ankle-deep water. The images of this Hindu saint are pretty wild too. Praying or playing?



Every evening at the India-Pakistan border, the guards stage a ceremony for the closing of the border. The soldiers on both sides stamp their feet and kick their feet so high they make the rockettes look like school-girls. They fluff their feathers and show off their machismo, and the ceremony ends when they slam their gates on each other. Funny stuff!



The turnout for this odd little event is enormous. Each country chants some patriotic lines - it feels kind of like the fourth of July. Music was pumping through the loud speakers and women were dancing in the streets. Good times! But wait... what is thaaaat?????



Yeah, that!!!! Whooooooa....



But then again...



Is this any different? Tauru keeps insisting that this is where Lord Porkshnu resides.



So long Amritsar! We had a marathon travel day going up to Dharamsala, where the Dalai Lama lives. We took one rickshaw, three buses (four if you count the fact that we had to alight and walk across a landslide area and re-embark on a new one), and a shared jeep. Here, we chose to sit on the roof to avoid the sardine-pack inside the bus. The joke was on us though - it poured and we got sopping wet!




Update: August 12, 2008 India - Dharamsala
We continued north to the hilly town of McCleod Ganj just above Dharamsala, which is where the Dalai Lama hangs out at. We went to see his crib but he wasn't home -- off traveling the world to pimp his Tibet cause.


In McCleod Ganj, we went to a street restaurant (a hole in the wall) where this kid ...literally, KID took and cooked our order. If only the Child Services folks knew! But I guess it's better than having him at home watching TV or playing video games.





His "hole in the wall" was actually pretty nice. Here's Christi waiting for her meal -- "just relax, the kid will get your order soon... give him a break!"




Here's another cool place. As the sign says, it's actually a "Tea Hut." Tea, and he does serve omelette sandwiches ...but that's it. We waited for the chap wearing the white shirt sitting in front of the Tea Hut to leave so that we could take the bench and watch life go by while sipping on chai.




A little history. So back in the mid-50's, the Chinese People's Liberation Army under Mao Tse Tung invaded Tibet and took it ...claiming that it was a part of China. If that wasn't bad enough... they killed a million people or so and destroyed 90% or more of the Tibetan temples and monateries.

About some 250,000 Tibetans fled -- including their spiritual and political leader, the Dalai Lama -- to Dharamsala and Darjeeling in India where they found asylum. So in Dharamsala, there were signs posted like the ones above in the photo to "Free Tibet," "Release Political Prisoners," etc... To date, the Chinese government has a strong and heavy hand over Tibet, which is not good. The Chinese government needs to enlightenment.



On Sunday, we witnessed a protest march. See the video below.




Video: Tibetans march for their freedom.







Update: August 21, 2008 India - Manali and free-range weeds
Continuing our trip up north to Leh, we stopped in Manali to enjoy a nature break. Set at just above 6,000 ft elevation, it was cool and very pleasant. Good strolling in this town.


Here's Christi on top of the bus en route to Manali. Sitting on top allows much better scenic views ...and avoids the sardine-packed inside. This is "men's break" as a bunch of guys hop off the bus to take care of "nature's call." As Tauru was doing this, he took this photo. Well, that is ...after his nature's meditation.




We go for a nature stroll through the luscious woods of Manali. Tauru enjoys investigating nature to understand the mechanisms of life and the order of the universe. "But what this?" he ponders.



"This is a free-range weed," Christi explains. "They grow wild here in this part of India. The Indians call it charas, and your friends back home call it ...."



Now Tauru understands life and the universe better.



Christi is proud of her student, and Tauru thanks the charas for giving him greater insight into the workings of the Big Guy (a.k.a., the Bee-Gee). (Note: This stuff is all over this part of India. A tea shop man we hung out with said, "I stand up at 6 AM, go to bathroom, make chai, and roll joint." This is his mantra for life.)




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