Update: April 8, 2009Tauru's Crazy Adventure: Commencement
On March 31st, Tauru boarded a flight to Seattle to begin and adventure of a lifetime, leaving Christi to enjoy the Phoenix sun for him. Upon arriving in the drizzly, grey northwest, he and Steve discussed their intended trip: to sail up to Icy Bay and climb Mount St. Elias from the sea, over several pints of beer.
The next morning, they left Seattle early and spent two days sailing up to Bellingham where they met their third man, Dave. The first bout of excitement came when trying to navigate the dingy back from shore to where the boat was anchored that night in a windy storm and choppy waters. The next day the moved to a proper slip to clean the boat and then met their fourth man, Taylor.
After a full day of shopping for food and supplies meant to last two months for four men, the crazy, sailing climbers set off on Sunday morning, heading for the Canadian border and beyond.
Update: April 10, 2009 Tauru's Crazy Adventure: And they're off!
Day 6: Bellingham to Nanaimo, Canada
April 5, 2009
Left Bellingham 10:30 AM (only an hour and a half behind schedule due to slight hang-over) and motor-sailed in light wind though sunny day northward with Mt. Baker clearly visible to the east. Arrived in White Rock, the border town of Canada where the crew called in for Canadian Customs’ check. Continued motoring through the night until 5 AM where we docked in Nanaimo (spelling?) on Vancouver Island. Passed Vancouver at night with dolphins riding alongside (Canadian secret service trained?).
Day 7: Nanaimo to Boho Bay on Lasqueti Island
April 6, 2009
In Nanaimo, Tauru and Dave went ashore briefly to shop for vegetables and fruits for the journey (we couldn’t take vegetables across the border according to the customs manual). We realized that we had to back track a little because we weren’t allowed to cross the Canadian military’s torpedo testing range. Still with beautiful, good weather.
Day 8: Boho Bay to April Pt across from Campbell River, north Vancouver Island
April 7, 2009
To our disappointment, there were only two small (3” acroos) crabs nibbling on the chicken leg in the crab-pod when I pulled it up early in the morning. I threw them back in the water and we left the tiny bay around 7:15 AM. We motored most of the day under a calm and clear sky. In the afternoon, a formation of Canada’s Air Force fighter jets flew over us -- seven airplanes in a diamond formation. We reached the northern section of Vancouver Island by night time.
Day 9: April Pt to Alert Bay
April 8, 2009
Caught 3 crabs overnight -- crab omelet for breakfast. 3 AM start to catch the tide. First day of cloudy, gloomy sky while motoring between jagged islands.
Update: April 14, 2009 Tauru's Crazy Adventure: They make it to Prince Rupert
Day 10: Alert Bay to Safety Cove, Calvert Island
April 9, 2009
Cloudy day with light sprinkles. We woke up anchored just out of the town of Alert Bay, a mostly native community that seemed to be popular with tourism. Even Oprah stopped by here to check out the tall totem polls in 2007. We continued northward through Queen Charlotte Strait as each member settled further into their own little world stuffed on a moving island. Half-way to Prince Rupert, will Tauru’s meditations achieve nirvana by St. Elias?
Day 11: Safety Cove to Jane Cove, Hunter Island
April 10, 2009
Slept in because we made it to Safety Cove at 3 in the morning. We had breakfast at noon and then took off. The weather has deteriorated and is now looking more like it’s supposed to for this area. We took it easy today and anchored by 8:40 pm in a cove well protected and quiet. Time for the crab pod again and some fishing before calling it a night.
Day 12: Jane Cove to Khutze Inlet
April 11, 2009
Tauru pulled out a huge starfish in the crab pod in the morning and said, “How do I cook this?” Taylor played with it for a little bid and then threw it back into the water. Its 20-some arms made Tauru wonder if there was a nuclear power plant nearby. Overcast sky and sporadic rain kept us inside reading, playing cards, and waiting for dinner (4 large crabs caught the night before).
“Taylor with the huge starfish.”
Day 13: Khutze Inlet to Kumealon Inlet (~30 miles south of Prince Rupert)
April 12, 2009
We continued from morning late into the night through the long quarter-mile wide Grenville Channel. Surrounding mountains rised abruptly into the sky with snow-line reaching the water. Taylor’s eyes lit up with high hopes of skiing back to the boat sooner than expected. Aside from a fishing boat and a tug boat pulling a large barge in the opposite direction, we didn’t see anyone else. During the morning, we got the best sailing thus far reaching above 7 knots under full sail with patches of blue sky above and snow-capped mountains all around us. We are anxious to reach Prince Rupert the following day to finally get a shower …and perhaps a change of clothes.
"Steve sailing."
"Sailing up to Prince Rupert."
Day 14: Kumealon Inlet to Prince Rupert
April 13, 2009
Managed to take advantage of some wind to sail up to Prince Rupert.
Of course, our fine gentlemen sailors got a little excited upon setting foot on solid ground. After scrubbing up (first shower in a week and some laundry!) they thought some women might be nice... but you see, they're in the middle of nowhere. So, they decided to fix the problem themselves...
Oh my! It's the wig, come back to haunt us!!
(See March 2009 for more on the Wig.)
Ahh, but who is this cutey? Sexy, sexy!
(Dave makes for one tall woman! Supermodel?)
I will update you more as I get the memos! In the mean time, check out Frequency for their blog!
Update: April 23, 2009: Tauru arrives in Icy Bay
Day 15: Prince Rupert to Ketchikan
April 14, 2009
Started late because we had to sleep away the previous night’s drinking. A perfect, beautiful day with an open blue sky. We continued through the Revillagedo Channel towards Ketchikan, the US Port of Entry. Back in America! Estimated time of arrival around 5 AM the following morning. Slow going at 5 knots, and staring out the window has turned into the past-time of choice.
Day 16: Ketchikan to Meyers Chuck
April 15, 2009
Arrived in Ketchikan at 4 AM Alaska time and woke up the Customs Officer, who then came down and “did his check.” He noticed the stove and zoomed in on that for whatever reason -- no contraband, buddy! Back on American soil where beer was cheaper (less tax), we raided the liquor store in addition to picking up groceries. The wind parted the gib sheet from the genoa (one of the sails) and prompted a quick response to recapture the sail. This was the first day we were exclusively under sail power -- money saved on deisel would be well used for beer. We docked in Meyers Chuck, which was a well-protected hidden bay with a handful of houses. We replenished our drinking water supply from a mountain lake a mile away.
In full sial.
Day 17: Meyers Chuck to south-end of Wrangell Narrows
April 16, 2009
We woke up in Meyers Chuck to a seaplane that was taking the ladies from the handful of houses “into town (Ketchikan) to go shopping.” Cold temperaturs all day, though no favorable winds to take advantage of for sailing. In the afternoon, a pod of porpoises escorted us for almost an hour. Strong winds kept the crew awake most of the night anchoring in our first gale -- we kept thinking that the boat was going to run aground.
Porpoises escorting us from the bow. (One to the right of Steve under water -- see white belly; other two are the splashes to the right and left of Steve.)
Day 18: Wrangell Narrows to Hobart Bay
April 17, 2009
Did an early morning start to ride the tide into Petersburg, another major Alaskan fishing town, where we picked up more smokes. Captain Steve nearly sunk us by having a near-miss through Wrangell Narrows. We continued northward from Petersburg and caught great wind through Frederick Sound -- sailed all afternoon picking up good speed (8 knots). This turned into our best sailing day yet, getting good speed sailing on a broad reach -- the crew broke out the wine and any remaining beer left on board. Spirits were high, …then the spirits ran out, but the crew was still happy.
Resolute stands as the lone sailboat amidst a sea of Petersburg comomercial fishing vessels.
Day 19: Hobart Bay to Juneau
April 18, 2009
The porpoises returned in the morning riding our bow, but we were done with them and so they soon left. The team spent the day making wands and taking inventory of mountain food supply. David calculated that we would need 450,000 more calories for our time on the mountain -- “We f----g need 50 f-----g more jars of f-----g nutella,“ Tauru exclaimed in sailor talk. Meanwhile, Steve’s engineering genius fixed the auto-pilot; otherwise, we would have to steer the entire way to Icy Bay. On entering Juneau, there was a bridge that had a passing height of 50 ft. “I’m not sure the mast is going to clear it,” Captain Steve said. So we had Taylor climb to the top of the mast as we approached the bridge to let us know whether we would clear the bridge or not. He gave us thumbs-up while hanging on to dear life -- the slight drizzle didn’t help much.
Steve checks wands’ strength while Tauru wonders about his own wands.
Day 20: A day in Juneau shopping
April 19, 2009
Spent the day pillaging Costco and various stores for last minute items before hittin’ up the Alaskan Brewing Company for free samples. And we did sample! The Barley Wine brew clocked in at 10.4% alcohol by volume and sent us into a spin. We got a ride back to the boat with some guy who had rotten seal blubber for bear in the back of his truck …where Tauru and Taylor were piled in. We sail for Icy Bay the following day -- Juneau is three-quarters of the way there.
NOTE: The team will be using their sat phone to call in updates for their blog on Frequency, so check there for updates over the next few weeks while they are on the mountain.
Update: April 30, 2009: Off the boat, onto the mountain!
Day 20: Yakutat to Icy Bay
April 24, 2009
Made our last run up to Icy Bay to end Phase 1 of our expedition -- Phase 2 will be climbing the mountain. Along the way, we encountered whales just 30 ft from the boat. Upon reaching Icy Bay, we had a hazy first peep of Mt. St. Elias through the clouds. Les Hartly of Alsek Air flew over us and hailed us on the VHF radio, and having learned of our intentions, informed us that he would be our “angle in the sky“ waiting on stand-by. We were put in contact with Les through Michelle Kissler, a biologist studying the elusive Kittltz bird in Icy Bay. We were put in contact with her through Sara, whom we randomly met in Juneau at the Juneau Folk Festival. This is how Alaska works. We finally met George and Jill, whom Steve had previously contacted. In a rally of support, George has offered to keep a watchful eye on our beloved Resolute and assisting us to our landing spot in the uncharted region of the upper Taan Fjord.
Day 21: Recon of Taan Fjord in Icy Bay
April 25, 2009
We spent the day weaving through icebergs and thick treachorous pack-ice while on a recon mission for a landing spot in the upper Taan Fjord. Determining that the glacier terminus was unapproachable because of enormous ice falls, we decided on an alternate approach up and over Hoof Hill to get on the Tyndall Glacier.
Dave and Taylor on a recon mission to scout a nearby bluff.
Resolute (see red arrow) in the uncharted upper Taan Fjord during our recon mission.
Day 22: Preparation and Rest Day in Icy Bay
April 26, 2009
We spent the day packing for the climb ahead. Dave ran around the boat franticly pulling his hair and speaking in strange tongue “for he hath forgotten his climbing skins!” Oooops! We loaded George’s landing craft with tons of gear and a sh*tload of food. We are ready start the climb of Mt. St. Elias tomorrow.
View from top of main mast of Resolute and Icy Cape, George’s landing craft.
Remember: The team will be using their sat phone to call in updates for their blog on Frequency, so check there for updates over the next few weeks while they are on the mountain.
