libya1

Libya Discovering the embargoed neighbor Dec 2003/Jan2004

photos +comments from my trip to Tripoli,Benghazi,Sabrata,LeptisMagna,Tocra,Ptolemais (Tolmeita),Cyrene,Apollonia,Nalut,Ghadames

Libya1,antiquities + buildings (57pics) Libya2 ,random images (50pics)

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Estimated built in the 2nd century AD during emperor Commodus' time,Sabrata's Roman theatre,is a spectacular edifice which however gives a sense of fakeness due to the severe restoration and use of mismatching materials that occured during the times of Italian occupation of Libya (1911-1943).The restored theatre was inaugurated with the ancient Greek drama "Oedipus" attended by Italian dictator Benito Mussolini in March 1937...

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at Sabrata,Hercules' temple and,back pic,the Cardo Maximus (main road connecting North to South)

Decapitated Aphrodite sunbathing in the sporadic sunshine of Sabratha's gloomy weather.Back pic,bust of Roman emperor Commodus in whose time,theatre of Sabratha was built late 2nd century AD (Sabratha museum)

The Basilica of Justinian -Byzantine Empire- in Sabratha.The city dates it's foundation about late 5th century BC by Phoenicians and was mostly developed during Roman times to reach it's peak along with nearby Leptis Magna in Septimus Sevirus' era.Devastated by earthquake in 365AD,was rebuilt by Romans,partially destroyed and weekened by Vandals from Europe and on by Berbers and restored by Byzantines to further survive it's last 100 years after Arab invasion in the area in 7th century AD

Leptis Magna,emperor Septimius Severus' Arc, built in his honour (203AD) on the intersection of Decumanus Maximus and Cardo Maximus (main roads connecting East to West and North to South correspondingly).

Central part of market in Leptis Magna.Estimated built in Anobal Tappapius Rufus time (8AD) was financed by wealthy native Carthagenian merchants who were enjoying special priviledges from Roman Empire,and back pic,remains of famous Hadrianic Baths,built in emperor Hadrian's time (2nd century BC),smaller only to those of Rome,one of the many spotmarks reflecting Leptis Magna's level of civilization and wealth in those times.

Sabratha,The Three Graces carved on the facade of theatre's stage,and back pic,...not the fourth Grace of course but me in the cavea of the theatre

Front,wall painting of hunting scene and back,"The Four Seasons" mosaic from Leptis Magna (Tripolis museum)

Cyrene,Front,Demeter's sanctuary.Back,panoramic view to Mediterannean from the slope where ancient city locates about 550 meters above sea level and 200kms northeast of Benghazi well protected from north winds and desert temperatures.Cyrene,dates it's foundation around 640BC by Greek settlers from Aegean island of Thera (nowadays Santorini) led by king Battus A' and urged by a telling from Delphi oracle to flee their drought inflicted island for a new land.Used to be the largest and most important among the 5 Greek cities of the so called (by Romans) "Greek Pentapolis" in ancient Libya.Lived it's Hellenistic era under the rule of Ptolemaic Dynasty (332-92BC) and passed on to Romans second in importance to Leptis Magna.Severely destroyed during Jewish revolt in early 1st century AD wars rebuilt in emperor Hadrian's time and recovered to prosperity till 365AD when struck by erthquake.Followed rebuilding by Byzantines coincided christianization and apart from limited recovery of the city resulted demolition of older buildings by christians.

At a gate of the Severn Forum (Roman Agora) aside one of the seventy Medusa heads, once upon a time, decorating the pilars of the forum (see enlarment on right photo)

Cyrene,Temple of Zeus (around 525BC) though built of lime stone (marble wherever used in ancient Libya was brought either from Greek or Roman territories) has a unique similarity to Athens Acropolis' Parthenon concerning the pilar number per side. "8x17" is a ratio followed most likely by the designers of only these two certain temples among all ancient Greek temples.Overall dimensions differ a lot however,(Zeus' Temple is longer,narrower and higher than Parthenon) and along with material and natural scenery differences give to the depicted a sense of a "heavy" edifice "dropped" on the hillside soil compared to Parthenon's marble stylishness naturally raised to sky by Acropolis rocky stage;still one of the most significant Greek ruins in Libya though

Medusa's snake haired head,artistic creativity and detail carved on marble

Cyrene,Front,the temple and Back,the sanctuary of Apollo to whom the city was dedicated both very close to the ancient spring around which Cyrene's settlement started

Teuchira,small fortress from the Ottoman period

Cyrene.The Forum along with many other ruins like the Stoa of Hermes and Heracles,the Nine Muses and the Agora,the Temple of Zeus,Demeter's sanctuary,etc reflect only a small part of Cyrene's prosperity and culture.

Teuchira (today's Tocra) founded as port by Greek seafarers and settlers roughly estimated between 7+5th century BC and reached it's peak in Hellinistic period.Today there is very little excavation done and much less to be seen in the area.There is a small museum in bad condition but the whole place (about 70kms east to Benghazi) is worth a visit on the way to the nearby and much more impressive Ptolemais

Ruins of palace and baths in Ptolemais (toda'ys Tolmeita) which originates as Hellenistic city founded durng Ptolemaic dynasty (3rd century BC) and named after Alexander's general Ptolemy III.Further developed under Roman rule became capital city of Upper Libya after Cyrene's decline.Struck also by eathquake of 365AD it recovered till 6th century when lost it's importance after Apollonia's promotion as capital city to follow the common destiny of ancient cities in Cyrenaica after Arab invasion (7th century AD).The site is only about 30% excavated but yet offers quite an extensive variety of ruins like the Columned Palace,the Theatre,the Underground Cicterns,the Basilica along with a small but nice museum

Aphrodite (Ptolemais Museum)

Apollonia.The Greek theatre on the Mediterannean shore (part of the old city is submerged into the sea).Back pic,pilars of the Central Basilica.Founded about same time with Cyrene (7th century BC) Apollonia (today's Sousa 115kms north to Bengazi) gained importance as main port in the area,remained autonomous during Roman period and eventually became capital city of Upper Libya after Cyrene's and Ptolemais' decline.Today there are remains of the Greek theatre,the Palace and the three Basilicas (eastern,western and central)

Stone block with Greek inscripture from either Hellinistic or Roman period at Teuchira.Greek language was used for long periods even during Roman and later Byzantine era.

Gadames,about 650km from Tripoli in central Sahara.Front,distinctive traditional house of high ranked town's resident located in the outer and open air parts of the town.Old Gadames,an UNESCO protected world heritage site,is a settlement of the Tuareg tribes.Gadames was known for it's developed administration system which among others was involved in water distribution control from the oasis through an extented underground canal networwork equally to all households on a stable circular basis.Moreover leaders from each neighborhood were regularly gathered consisting kind of local parliament.Back pic,Palm trees in the oasis of Gadames

Front,observatory tower in Gadames.Back,interior of main room of an average house in Gadames.For protection from extreme temperatures and sand storms there were no windows but just one small square opening on the terrace for ventilation and essential illumination of the whole house while light was reflected by mirrors hanging high on the walls.Terraces of neighboring houses were connected and accessible to each other used as exclusive meeting places for women to chat and gossip and kids to play weather permitting.

Front,characteristic covered alley and ,Back ,gate withTuareg symbols at house in old Gadames.The town is a labyrinth of covered narrow roads with short uncovered parts for essential illumination.Entrances of most houses are located along those dark alleys.Building materials (mud,straw,animal excrerments and palm tree wood) in combination with town's sophisticated architecture provided cool and survivable conditions all year round and especially during summer when temperatures in Sahara can even exceed 60o Celsus.Intresting detail is also the existence of vintage "ecological" toilets in the houses where human excrements were covered with ash to absorb smell and left to dry.Ocassionally the dried concetration was recycled in the gardens as fertilizer,a remarkable ecological attitude indeed

Front,open air road part and Back pic,tower,dome and palm tree trunk in Gadames.

Food storage in the desert.Characteristic circular multileveled bulding of cells each one belonging to particular family for protecting their food supplies from extreme desert conditions.

Mosque in modern Gadames

Small mosque in Tripolis

Former catholic cathedral,built during Italian occupation,in Algeria Square/Tripoli,converted in mosque was in final stages of complete restoration before inaguration

Italian architecture from the pre WWII era in Green Square/Tripoli

Dwellings in Bengazi

Ruined italian dwelling in Bengazi.Italians fled Libya after Italy's defeat in WWII.

Tripoli....gazing and building high....Modern scysraper and,as usual, one of the inumerous Qadhafi's posters depicting Libya's leader with characteristic sunglasses,...aparently an all time looking ...sky high pose,demands protection from sunrays...

Right,scyscrapers in my opinion resembling topled plastic waterbottles and left, Abou Nawas Hotel,my home for 4 overnights in Tripoli

Leaving Gerba airport/Tunisia for the Tunisian/Libyan border (this photo was taken in the beginning of the trip).Gerba is Tunisia's only "island", connected to Tunisian mainland through a 17kms long strip of land.Tourist destination for many Europeans is one hour fromTunis by plane and about 120 km from the Libyan border ......click here for the rest 50 images on Libya2

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